I’m told Debar Marlo is the bohemian part of Skopje, so after climbing Mount Vodno, I make my way there. But when I arrive, I find a single cobblestone street filled with restaurants. Not an artisan shop or cafe to be found.
I check my map and plot a course to the Old Bazaar, which is decidedly much bigger than I thought it would be. The bazaar is busy with locals and tourists, despite that it has been raining and most of the shops are closed on a Saturday.
Some of the restaurants are filling up with afternoon customers, their tables filled with food, although most customers are only drinking alcohol, beer being the primary drink of choice. There are some tables attended by local men who are drinking only coffee. They smoke cigarettes too. The absence of alcohol makes me think it’s a cultural or religious mandate.
The Old Bazaar has a rich history, going back to the 12th century. It has survived a couple of earthquakes, a major fire, and a couple of world wars. Along the cobblestone streets, one can find a few mosques, a clock tower, and at least one church. There are vendors of all types, selling everything from jewelry to iPhone covers. There are a few antique stores too, but only one of them is open. The handful of tourist shops sell exactly the same merchandise, and postcards are noticeably absent.
I enjoy a coffee and cake in one of the few cafes that sells more than just coffee, and I walk up and down the wet streets, watching that I don’t step in the frequent holes in the cobblestones, and avoiding a couple of crazy scooter drivers who seem intent on either terrorizing or impressing the pedestrians. Though the Old Bazaar is fascinating, almost all of the artisan shops are closed.
I soon lose interest and wander out to see the rest of the city.
