I overhear a tour guide tell his group, “It’s the oldest functioning cafe in Bratislava.”
I wonder: If he took out the word ‘functioning’, what would be the difference?
I, however, am drawn to the cafe by the advertised offer of an English breakfast, a piece of cheesecake, and a cappuccino for fifteen Euros.
I take a seat and read the informative menu.
The cafe was founded by Julius Mayer in 1873 and was frequented by the “renowned artist”, Schöne Náci, whose life-sized statue stands at the entrance, adding historical charm to Old Town Bratislava.
His favourite dessert was apparently Sacher cake, and after enjoying a piece, he would head to the main square, compliment ladies, entertain children, and generally bring positivity and joy to people’s lives.
It’s hard to tell where fact meets fiction because later when I look up Schöne Náci, I find no evidence that he was an artist at all, but instead lived off the generosity of local cafes and did some occasional cleaning work.
Ah well, he makes a good story.
While I wait for my coffee and food, I look around the cafe.
There are several rooms, all nicely decorated with wooden chairs and benches covered with multi-coloured fabric.
Built-in cupboards with glass doors surround the room, each filled with wines from the House of Hafner Family Estate.
Beside one of the displays is a group of three postcard-sized framed photographs of Bratislava as it must have looked more than a hundred years ago.
The cafe has only been open fifteen minutes, but the front room is filled with customers, all tourists it seems, one couple speaking English, a well-dressed family speaking French (even the baby in the buggy is wearing designer clothes), and at the next table, a group of four young men speaking German and talking about sports, soccer (football) primarily.
One of them lost a sporting bet yesterday worth one hundred Euros, but hopes to win it back with this evening’s game.
The food is good, the chocolate fudge cherry cheesecake excellent, and the piano music relaxing.
I see that all of the servers are young and wearing the same uniform – white shirt, black pants, and black belt.
I smile because, although most are also wearing black shoes, one server is expressing his individuality by wearing a pair of 1960s-style white sneakers.
