The day was forecasted to be a scorcher. And it was, reaching 40 degrees. I started walking early because it was to be a long day and I wanted to do as much of the 39 remaining kilometers as I could before the heat became oppressive.
I was thankful for the long stretches along shady forest trails with the scent of eucalyptus enveloping me. By 10:00, the heat was quite uncomfortable, and it was all I could do to stay hydrated, drinking a couple of liters of water and stopping for icy-cold drinks at cafes along the way. I knew when I was getting close to Santiago when I had to start paying airport prices for cola and Fanta. Gosh, how I miss rural Spain.
I expected the trail to be packed with pilgrims today, given that it’s summer and three different Caminos merge in Arzua, but there were surprisingly long stretches when I was walking alone. Still, I probably passed 150 pilgrims, mostly clustered in groups of 30-40. There were plenty of high-school-aged pilgrims, wearing what appeared to be team t-shirts.
This is my last day on the Camino this year, and while that might mean I would want to walk slowly and savour my last steps to Santiago, it wasn’t so today. I burned through 39 kilometers in 6.5 hours to try to beat the heat.
At 1800, I met up with my Russian friend, Shenja, at the Cathedral courtyard. We laid flat on our backs on the courtyard stones, staring up at the cathedral and the sky, soaking up the evening sun, and watching the tourists and pilgrims wander about. I especially enjoy watching pilgrims arrive for the first time to the Santiago Cathedral after their long pilgrimages. They look weary, but wear a very recognizable expression of wonder and gratitude. It’s delightful!
A gentleman from Holland chatted with Shenja and me. He and his wife had just arrived in Santiago and he noticed our packs with the shells, so he asked us about our Camino experience. He had never done one himself and was curious. We chatted for a few minutes, and then he wandered away, returning after a minute with a perplexed look on his face. “Is this all there is in Santiago?” he asked. “Is there anything else to see, or is this cathedral plaza all there is?”
Shenja and I chuckled. “No, there’s lots to see. Have you been inside the cathedral yet?” He shook his head, so I showed him how to get to the entrance. I smiled thinking how this poor fellow could have come to Santiago from such a long distance, taken a quick look at the Cathedral courtyard, shrugged, and, thinking that this was all there was to see, quietly returned to his car and drove back home.
Daniel, Juliane, Shenja, Kim, and I reunited at night for some drinks and to say our final goodbyes. We finished off the night by dancing to some traditional Spanish music, provided by a delightful and entertaining group of men dressed in the clothing of medieval monks. It was a splendid way for my pilgrim friends and me to end our Camino adventure together.
