One of the highlights of this Camino that will be etched in my memory forever is meeting Monte. She is as delightful and generous a human being as I have ever met and it would be a joy for anyone to stay at her albergue. This morning, she came downstairs and joined the pilgrims for coffee. She was so full of enthusiasm for our journey that it was infectious. When I was about to leave, she reached out her arms to me. “David, David”, she said, hugged me tightly and then kissed me on both cheeks. She sure knows how to make people feel important.
Birte and I got away late, since we were having so much fun with Monte and it was to be a shorter walking day. The walking went by easily and the conversation was great. We climbed a terrifically long hill up paved roads, dirt paths, rocky trails, and back to paved roads again before we finally crested the mountain, and then we were blessed with a view of the ocean and the city of Gijon in the distance. The weekend cyclists were out in abundance and I gave every one of them climbing the hills a thumbs up. For me, it’s one thing to walk up those steep trails, but I don’t know that I’d ride a bicycle up them, especially just for pleasure.
Just before Cabuenes, Birte and I found a cafe on the hillside. We ordered coffees but were hoping for a pastry too. The host told his boss we were looking for something sweet and the boss suggested, perhaps, a torte. Yes, that would be splendid. But when the server brought the cake to our picnic table, the huge plate was filled with four different types of cake, including a fabulously delicious chocolate mousse. We were in heaven. I actually paused to give thanks to the universe for this beautiful moment.
After filling our bellies, it was only 850 meters downhill to Camping Deva, where we paid seven Euros for a bed. Birte and I were the first pilgrims to arrive for the day. And here I am now, showered, with my washed socks and underwear drying in the sun, drinking a liter-sized bottle of cold beer. Mahou Clasica. So good. Such a wonderful life. So thankful.
