It was perfect hiking weather today as I left my pilgrim’s albergue in Irun to start my Camino journey. It was cool, cloudy, and there was a complete absence of rain and bugs. The terrain was varied – forest paths, mountain roads, and cobblestone streets – and never boring. The views were to die for.
I walked for a half hour or so from Irun up into the hills to Santuario de Guadelupe, a 16th-century church overlooking the Bidasoa Valley. Apparently, in 1638, when nearby Hondaribbia was under siege, the Virgin of Guadelupe protected the town for 69 days.
From the church, the route split and I opted to take the more difficult path that led to the summit of Mount Jaizkibel. I’m glad I did, because the Bay of Biscay coastline could be seen all the way up to France. It was stunning.
The air was filled with the sounds of birds, streams, wind, and cowbells, and the trail was littered with ruins of defensive towers from the Middle Ages.
The descent into Pasajes was long and steep, so I know I’ll feel the ache in my quads in the morning. In Pasajes, part of the Camino trail includes a ride across the port in a pedestrian ferry. Cost: 80 cents.
The best parts of the day involved people. I met some delightful new friends from Germany, Spain, Canada, and the US. The pilgrim camaraderie here certainly is excellent.
I finished my day at an albergue in San Sebastian, a popular surfing town, where I gobbled down a bar of Swiss chocolate to celebrate a successful Day 1 on the Camino.
